The Other Critics

Russell House is Grafton Group’s Best Yet; Parsons Table ‘Top Notch’

• Robert Nadeau gives Russell House Tavern three stars, calling the food Grafton Group’s best yet: “Russell House does a moderate job with comfort food, and then touches all the contemporary themes: charcuterie plate, locavore, sustainable, craft beers, and classic cocktails. Desserts need a little work, and the restaurant needs to invest in real wine glasses pronto. But this is such a useful restaurant for so many audiences that where the chef (Michael Scelfo, ex-Dedo, ex-North Street Grill, ex-Tea Tray in the Sky) does add a little personal style, the customer experience is like buying a serviceable coat in a thrift store and finding a $20 bill in the pocket.” [Phoenix]

• Devra First bestows three stars on Winchester’s Parsons Table, where “the menu isn’t condescending or gimmicky or predictable. The ingredients are high quality. The cooking is top-notch.” [Globe]

• MC Slim JB stops by Vietnamese sandwichery Lee’s Store and Bakery: “I’m still elated to have found Lee’s: its terrific sandwiches rank among the tastiest under-$3 lunches in town.” [Phoenix]

• Cheap Eats falls a little in love with Garlic ‘N Lemons, where “traditional, old-fashioned Middle Eastern street food and other specialties are offered in a sparkling clean 6-table spot, which is full of surprises. One is the price. We look at the tally for our order and tell the cashier it’s too little for what we got. This is how things are priced here.” [Globe]

Russell House is Grafton Group’s Best Yet; Parsons Table ‘Top Notch’