• Devra First paints a somewhat unappealing picture of Lolita: Those who dare enter the swanky Back Bay newcomer might endure two-hour waits, crushing crowds, “bland” tortilla soup, too-sweet duck tacos, and sluggish bar service. Despite this damning first impression, First hands out a two-star review; “tender” shrimp tacos, guacamole, and “perfectly seared” tuna apparently save the day. [Globe]
• Mat Schaffer visits Chinatown’s Dumpling Cafe and enjoys it. Blogged-about soup dumplings are a hit; so too is the medley of Taiwanese street “treats” like grilled squid. Olfactorily speaking, do note that stinky tofu’s “old-socks aroma” is “much appreciated by the Taiwanese,” so perhaps inhale deeply before entering. [Herald]
• Chinatown’s The Best Little Restaurant mostly lives up to its name, says Ike DeLorenzo, though we take issue with the assertion that family-run Chinese eateries around here are dominated by savory-sweet Cantonese cuisine. Really? Anyway, there’s 181 dishes on the menu (not all savory-sweet), and the waitstaff will steer you wisely. [Globe]
• Now it’s Corby Kummer’s turn to visit Island Creek Oyster Bar. He points out that the place’s enormous success is due in large part to the wizardry of co-owner Garrett Harker, who has a knack for pleasing locals and visitors alike. Bar Manager Jackson Cannon’s libations don’t hurt, either; pristine oysters and excellent seafood casserole are a given. But we think we’ll skip the slushy ice milk that calls to mind a “retro Weight Watchers shake,” even if we did overdo it on that too-buttery lobster roll. [Boston]
• MC Slim JB wastes no time visiting South End newcomer The Wholy Grain. This one-time mobsters’ den now serves baked goods, sandwiches, and espresso to a clientele more accustomed to stroller wars than mob wars. Don’t miss the roast turkey sandwich, which Slim heralds as “substantial, gorgeous, delicious”; daily-changing soups are “knockouts.” [Phoenix]
• MC Slim also gives a nod to the “carefully coiffed,” “copiously cologned,” and “slinkily sheathed” elite who have few places to dine stylishly in our fair city. He therefore visits not-new Market by Jean-Georges at the W, where that rarified group might feel comfy as a Manolo. Crowd’s suave and the food’s not bad, either; he notes that chicken breast “nests prettily” atop salsify slices, while East meets West with red snapper on not-overdone spaghetti squash. [Stuff]
• Roslindale’s Sugar Baking Co. sells structurally sound breakfast sandwiches, “pillowy” waffles, a thinly-shaved grilled reuben, and it even houses a coin-operated scale. [Phoenix]
