The Other Critics

A Tavola Tries to Find Its Feet; Papagãyo Stays Afloat With Fish Tacos

• Devra First calls Winchester’s A Tavola a “work in progress.” Sadly, “dry mozzarella di bufala disappoints,” and pasta dishes are inconsistently executed. At least chicken under a brick “offers impressively crisp skin, juicy meat, and the fragrance of rosemary.” [Globe]

• Larry J’s House of Q pioneers BBQ in Chelsea, known mainly for takeout subs. Try the hot pepper meatballs, known as “Fire Balls.” [Globe]

• Robert Nadeau is lukewarm on Papagãyo Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Bar. It is an “unashamedly fake Mexican restaurant,” yet it manages to churn out very good fish tacos. “Baked tilapia with avocado and garlicky green sauce turns out to be a combination made in heaven,” he admits. [Phoenix]

• The “eye-popping” new Kika Tapas on Cambridge’s Third Street serves “lomito al Cabrales three char-edged pork tenderloin cutlets in a sauce of nearly hypnotic richness, made with a lot of cream, some porcini, crimini, and oyster mushrooms, and a carefully administered dose of queso de Cabrales (a blue cheese so intense it can make you dizzy),” pens MC Slim JB. [Stuff]

• Lizzy’s in East Cambridge offers a “full page of cheeky $8 cocktails.” The food menu, meanwhile, is an “international jackpot, with everything less than $10.” [Phoenix]

A Tavola Tries to Find Its Feet; Papagãyo Stays Afloat With Fish Tacos