The Globe restaurant critic offers her perspective on the L.A. Times' decision to forgo their star system. First off, the Globe probably won't abandon their star ratings, even though they can be controversial at times and occasionally frustrating to use. Still, since the Globe won't do away with their system, how can a restaurant secure a coveted four-star review? Cater to the fussy, the aged, the snobby, and children, of course.
She discloses that her most frequent reader question goes like this: "Where is a good place to take my grandmother for dinner in the North End? She is turning 80. We have a party of 17 people. Some of them have food allergies, so it can't be a place that serves eggs, nuts, wheat, or dairy. Four are extremely picky eaters. Five are gourmet snobs. We have teenagers, so the place has to be fun. And babies, so we need high chairs. We don't want to spend more than $10 per person. Where should we go?"
And so, she promises to award four stars to whichever new restaurant caters to these requests. Seems like a challenge only Top Chef producers could love. Luckily, they are coming to Boston next year, right?