Devra First is on leave, so Katie Johnston heads on over to North Cambridge's L'Impasto. Normally we don't call out particular reviews (unless they're downright hilarious, scathing, or both), but L'Impasto's review deserves a special mention because (a) the restaurant is in an area where there's not a lot of good stuff to eat and (b) it's incredibly food porn-tastic, even though the Grub-verboten word "toothsome" does appear.
Here, "breads and pastas are exquisite, from airy focaccia laden with fontina cheese and wild mushrooms to pillows of ravioli filled with creamy whipped potatoes and nutty piave cheese, swimming in butter and sage." And also: "Delicate cylinders of cannelloni are filled with ground sausage and artichoke that seems to have melted into the meat, enveloped by a decadent fontina fondue." We'll have two of the "toothsome" gnochetti sardi with lamb ragu, please. [Globe]