And Such Small Portions?

Journeyman: A destination?

"In Somerville, near Boston, the young, self-taught owners of a restaurant called Journeyman made tasting-only menus a part of their business plan, along with the usual local/seasonal/carted-from-the-farm-or-raised-in-our-window-boxes ingredients. When I dined there last year, the inflexibility of the dour, dogmatic servers would have been comical had it not been so infuriating."—Corby Kummer in Vanity Fair, on the tyranny of fine dining [VF, EN]