Andy Greenwald writes an essay for Grantland that basically tries to sink the unsinkable Anthony Bourdain and excoriate all of the benignly conspicuous conceits of ABC's show The Taste, described as a "a bland, underseasoned mess" that's overrun with "yoga-bowing amateurs" and "deluded Capoeira instructors who make 'food for awesomeness.'" (Greenwald also comes out here, it should be noted, against dessert as a legitimate dinner course.) The show is predictably awful, he writes, though Nigella Lawson is great, and, also, no one will ever dislike Nigella Lawson. Meanwhile, co-hosts Ludo Lefebvre and Brian Malarkey are nonstarters who don't do much to offer culinary expertise or entertain viewers, but worst of all is Bourdain, described here as a once-great "knight-errant of good taste," depicted "on a garishly lit soundstage, defanged like an aging circus lion" and a shadow of his former self up high atop a pyramid scheme of supreme boringness.