The Braiser offers up a juicy interview with psychologist-writer Scott Haas, whose new book, Back of the House, examines the inner workings of Maws's mind and kitchen. He doesn't mince words in this fairly cutting interview, either. The upshot: The guy is inconsistent.
"Tony likes to shake things up, and that’s clear to me in how he does things in his restaurant. But there’s a lack of consistency. So on the one hand, he has this idea where he doesn’t want to serve any Californian wines, because he doesn’t want people to have familiar wine. He only serves wines cheifly from France, some from Italy. But on the other hand, he serves all these beautiful craft beers, chiefly from the United States. So why is it all right to sell beer from the states, but not wine? That doesn’t make any sense to me. When he talks about wanting to use all local products, why is it that he buys his olive oil from Lebanon? If he talks about doing things from scratch, why is he getting bread from Iggy’s Bakery, a commercial bakery whose bread you can buy at Whole Foods? I think he’s a work in progress. I don’t think he’s clearly defined what he wants to do, or what his kitchen wants to do."
So, is Haas going to be brought on as a consultant for Maws's new Somerville restaurant? We think not.
Food Writer Scott Haas On Tony Maws, Boston, And What It Means To Be A ‘Great Chef’ [Braiser]
Earlier: Go Behind the Scenes With Tony Maws in a Juicy New Book